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San Onofre State Beach
Virgin coastline, surf history and beachside camping.
As if just hanging out at the beach isn't fun enough, people have invented all kinds of ingenious ways to enjoy it even more - surfing, windsurfing, bodysurfing, bodyboarding, skimboarding, kiteboarding, wakeboarding, skateboarding, rollerskating, rollerblading, rollercoastering, sailing, boating, jetskiing, waterskiing, fishing, snorkelling, scuba diving, volleyball and a myriad of other activities. Whether you are an accomplished expert or taking up a new sport for the first time, you'll find everything you need to do it right in San Diego, from equipment and rentals to charters and instruction.
Jealously claimed by Orange County, San Onofre is actually situated south of its county line in San Diego County. Bordered to the south and east by the sprawling Camp Pendleton Marine Corps Reserve, San Onofre offers an opportunity to appreciate what Southern California's entire coastline may have looked like 100 years ago. Here you will find barren, windswept bluffs, native vegetation and a tidal wetland frequented by migratory birds and wild deer. In stark contrast to its primitive, natural side, San Onofre is also home to a nuclear-powered generating facility and a state-of-the-art military base. Ironically, it is these same potentially destructive forces that protect this area from development and provide the 20-mile coastal greenbelt that has prevented San Diego, Orange County and Los Angeles from merging into one huge megalopolis. San Onofre offers three unique beach areas - Trestles, Old Man's and Trails - and two great ways to enjoy them - by day or overnight camping.
Lower Trestles, on the south side of the San Mateo Creek river mouth, is a world-famous surf break with a packed and talented lineup to prove it. It's not a particularly challenging wave, but it is long, steady and consistent, ideal for performance surfing. A lot of pro surfers have honed their craft at Lowers, and on any given day (but particularly in the summer/fall south swell season) you can witness a three-ring circus of modern power surfing and aerial maneuvers. If you're keen to paddle out and give it a go yourself, be warned that this same circus atmosphere makes for some chaotic situations and clownish behavior in the water. The breaks to the north (Uppers) and south (Middles and Church) of Lowers offer mellower crowds, but at a considerable sacrifice in wave quality. The beach at Trestles is a bit sparse and difficult to access (see directions below) with cobblestones and submerged rocks by the waterline. It's not as diligently patrolled by lifeguards and offers fewer facilities than Old Man's down the coast, all of which accounts for its greater appeal among teens and locals.
Old Man's lies just north of the nuclear plant. Some locals swear the ocean is warmer at Old Man's, where water used to cool the reactors is pumped back out to sea, but at least, by all accounts, it is not radioactive. Old Man's is an easy spot to access, with good facilities and a safe, clean, sandy beach. Like its neighbor Trestles to the north, Old Man's - also known as San Onofre State Surfing Beach - is a world-renowned surf spot. Unlike Trestles, however, Old Man's won its fame in the early history of the sport, when heavy wooden longboards demanded softer, slower waves. It was here that 'beach boys' like Hobie Alter, Dewey Weber and Dale Velzy helped shape the sport and culture of California surfing for generations to come. Fun, gentle waves still roll through Old Man's, making it a popular surf spot for beginners and veterans alike, while beachgoers will appreciate the neighborly, tailgate party scene in and around the parking lot.
Trails is the collective name for the three miles of beach fronting the San Onofre Bluffs State Campground to the south of the nuclear plant. The campground is set up in a linear fashion with campsites and bathroom facilities spaced at intervals all along the seaward side of the old Coast Highway. Campsites are open to tent and RV camping, but no hookups are provided. The prime sites are near the trailheads for footpaths leading down the bluffs to the beach. These access trails are numbered one through six, the beaches they lead to being their namesakes. Trail Six is the most southerly and the most popular among day visitors, particularly the clothing optional set (even though nudism is not legal at San Onofre or any other beach in San Diego). The beach here is generally the same whichever trail you choose, predominantly sand with areas of rock reefs and tidepools at low tide. Surf here is fair, a bit punchier than Old Man's, but not anything like Lowers. Campers enjoy surf-fishing and clam-digging. Parts of this expansive beach are patrolled by lifeguards and park rangers, but consider yourself at your own risk in all water safety judgments.
Directions
To find Old Man's and Trails, exit INTERSTATE 5 at Basilone Road and head south. The entrance to the San Onofre State Surfing Beach (Old Man's) is a turnout on the right before reaching the power plant. Continue south past the power plant to reach the San Onofre State Beach Campground entrance (Trails). The rangers at either of these gates can direct you to a parking area and provide information about availability, regulations, fees and current conditions. To get to Trestles, first-timers are advised to park at Old Man's and walk north up the beach.
A more direct but rather adventurous route to Trestles begins at the parking area near the Carl's Jr. restaurant on the east side of the freeway at the Christianitos exit. From here, walk, skate or bike down the paved path leading west to the beach on the north side of the San Mateo river mouth (Uppers), or follow the abandoned frontage road to an unmarked but well-used dirt path leading to the south side of the river mouth (Lowers).
Warning
People have died in attempts to use the railroad trestle over the creek as a shortcut between Uppers and Lowers; don't be tempted to try it yourself. It's usually an easy matter to wade across through the sea near the shoreline.
Offerings
San Onofre State Beach Campground has 380 sites for RV's or tent camping. There are bathrooms, picnic tables and fire rings but no utility hookups. No overnight camping is allowed at San Onofre State Surfing Beach, but there are bathrooms, showers and lifeguards. For camping information and reservations call park headquarters at 949-492-4872 or Reserve America at 800-444-7275. For beach info call 949-366-8500.
Considerations
From San Diego, a visit to San O' is a mission - but it's a worthwhile one. Plan to make it a long day - or better yet, a long weekend. When the campsites and parking lots fill, the rangers turn cars away at the gates. Day use is first come, first serve, but you can and should make reservations in advance if you plan to camp. Bring cash; fees are charged for both day use and overnight camping. At times of elevated threat in recent years, the military base and the nuclear plant have implemented additional security measures. This does not typically interfere with area beach use, but be sure to comply with any special signs or instructions. Military personnel are also eligible to use several excellent beaches and campgrounds on the base which are not included in this guide. Call 760-725-SURF or 760-725-SAND for info.
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San Diego Beach Guide - San Diego's Best Beaches
