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La Jolla Beaches
An Early Riser Prepares His Kayak
Buried treasure on the sands of San Diego's central coast.
If you're on holiday in San Diego, a visit to La Jolla should already be on your agenda. This affluent community is known for luxury homes, fine dining and upscale shopping. But its real assets are the beaches, and these are freely available for the enrichment of all. The coastline varies dramatically in La Jolla. At its northernmost limit, fortified by 300 foot sea cliffs, is Blacks. The Shores is a mile long crescent of prime sand beach favored by active beachgoers of all interests. The Cove, with its Mediterranean backdrop, is among San Diego's most sheltered swimming spots, while the reefs southward around Windansea and Birdrock are among its most exposed.
Torrey Pines City Beach better known as
Blacks, can be found in the vicinity of the University of California San Diego campus. A gated private road, jointly owned and maintained by the residents and the university, leads to the beach off of La Jolla Farms Road. Stately eight-figure mansions and state-of-the-art medical research labs now line the bluffs where stables and pastures once lay. Unless you can procure a much coveted key to the gate, you will have to park above and walk down the road. A more direct but difficult route is the dirt trail beginning at the Torrey Pines Flight Park (the Glider Port) at the end of Torrey Pines Scenic Drive a mile north of the Farms off Torrey Pines Road. There's a spacious public parking lot by the Flight Center where you can watch hang-gliders, para-gliders and glider planes soar on the thermal updrafts created by the cliffs, or leave your car for the long trek to the beach. Blacks is famous among surfers for big winter swell, but is better known to the rest of the world as a nude beach. Nudism is unlawful in San Diego, but it has persisted at Blacks for decades, the only real deterrent being cold weather. The nudists (or 'nakes' as Surfers call them) tend to hang out north of the Glider Port Trail, while surfers head south to the main peaks. For the most part, surfers and nakes are the only people motivated enough to make the mission to Blacks, so if these aren't your motives think about giving Blacks a miss and heading to The Shores instead.
There's always something going on at
La Jolla Shores Beach. The north end of the beach, better known as
Scripps for the Scripps Institute of Oceanography and its landmark pier (not open to the public) is favored by intermediate surfers and bodyboarders. By day the main beach is a busy swimming area popular among families, who set up elaborate base camps on the grassy park, while the children make forays to the shallow water to boogie board. At night it's alive with the glow of beach fires and the nervous energy of young adults socializing. The south part of the coast here is largely shielded by La Jolla Bay, and is used as training grounds by scores of scuba diving students. Small boats can be launched directly into the sea from the end of Avenida De La Playa, and a block or two up the same road are shops that'll rent you a kayak, fill your scuba tank or sell you a bikini. The La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club comprises the southernmost end of La Jolla Shores Beach. The club is private property but the beach itself is public. Beyond that, the sand abruptly ends in front of the Marine Room Restaurant, where harmless Leopard Sharks often congregate in the shallows, offering snorkelers an exhilarating encounter.
Directions
From the northbound 5 FWY exit La Jolla Parkway west to La Jolla Shores Drive. From the southbound 5 FWY exit La Jolla Village Drive west, then left on Torrey Pines Road to La Jolla Shores Drive. Turn left at Avenida De La Playa, right on Camino Del Oro two blocks to Kellogg Park.
Offerings
At Blacks, expect only a distant walk and whatever you brought along with you. At The Shores, count on finding everything you didn't, all within walking distance: surf shop, dive shop, kayak shop, rentals, instruction, snacks, gas, restaurants, hotels, lifeguards, bathrooms, showers, boardwalk, parking lot, grass park, play structure, fire-rings, etc. The excellent Scripps Birch Aquarium is nearby, with a huge selection of dining and shopping opportunities down the coast in downtown La Jolla. For more info on La Jolla Shores and other City Beaches call: 619-221-8899.
Considerations
New roadways are making La Jolla easier to access from the freeway, but improving the traffic is not likely to help the parking situation. The lot at La Jolla Shores is big but not big enough to handle summer crowds. Most people arrive at noon and leave around 4pm. Come early for the beach or late for the sunset and you're almost guaranteed to find a spot. No alcohol at The Shores anytime; at Blacks only between the hours of 12pm and 8pm. Designated surfing and swimming areas.
Warning
There are only three ways to access Blacks Beach: the paved road from La Jolla Farms, the dirt footpath from the Glider Port or the long walk up the beach from Scripps or Torrey Pines. You may come across other trails or imagine one of your own, but know that many people have died, been injured and become hopelessly stuck on these cliffs purely as a result of bad judgment. Once safely arrived on the beach at Blacks, one is still confronted with hazards. Just look around and you'll see boulders the size of cars that have fallen from the cliffs above. Lay your beach towel at the foot of ravines, well clear of sheer cliff walls. Water conditions are also often unsafe for swimming at Blacks, compounded by the absence of regular lifeguard supervision. Finally, be careful where you look at Blacks; the scenery may not always be pleasing to the eye...
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San Diego Beach Guide - San Diego's Best Beaches