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North Coastal/Carlsbad Neighborhood Guide
A Windmill in North County
North County is San Diego's final frontier. The Camp Pendleton Marine Corps Base forms a buffer zone to the north that prevents San Diego from being absorbed into the sprawling megalopolis of Los Angeles and Orange County, and lends North County its isolated, outback appeal. In the old days, the sleepy seaside town of Carlsbad was nothing more than a whistle stop on the Santa Fe train route.
Today, it's one of the fastest growing neighborhoods in San Diego—a headquarters for high-tech corporations and home to upscale housing communities. But, when traveling north along the Pacific Coast Highway between Encinitas and Oceanside, North County's scenic beaches and charming roadside villages make it feel like you're heading back in time and leaving it all behind. And when you stop off on Main Street, by the old train Depot in Carlsbad, you'll realize that you really are.
Cruising around
Carlsbad and its coastal neighbors, Oceanside, Leucadia, Encinitas and La Costa, are easy to explore by car. Just east of the 5 freeway, off Palomar Airport Road, it's hard to miss the brilliant patterns on the hillside.
Painted by thousands of multi-colored Ranunculus flowers every spring, this Carlsbad landmark once served as a gateway to the rural farm lands beyond. Now the flowering hillsides herald North County's industrial bloom. Major sporting goods companies like Callaway Golf and K2 have taken up residence here, along with high-tech software and video game designers and all manner of big business.
Just up the road, beyond the outlet stores and car dealerships, is the Legoland theme park (760-918-5346). Here you can view replicas of famous international landmarks made entirely out of the colorful plastic building blocks, and enjoy rides, shows and attractions based on Lego's many themed product lines (planes, trains and automobiles, fairytales, knights and dragons).
In Oceanside, you can charter a fishing boat or take in a meal at the harbor. The California Surf Museum (760-721-6876) is down by the pier on Coast Highway, with its comprehensive collection of historic surfboards and surf memorabilia. Just inland, along Mission Avenue, is Mission San Luis Rey, one of eighteen California missions built by the Spanish in 1798 to serve the colonial and native populations. San Luis Rey is open daily to the public as a museum, and offers mass on Saturdays (760-757-3651).
Down the coast in Encinitas and Leucadia, you'll find all kinds of fun shops and restaurants to explore, not to mention the lively nocturnal scene around Martini Ranch and the La Paloma Theater. Or, you can enjoy more peaceful pursuits at the Quail Botanical Gardens (760-436-3036) or the Sri Yogananda Self-Realization Fellowship (760-436-7220).
Inside tips
North County has an upbeat So Cal beach culture, combining a laid-back, new-age philosophy with an energetic and ambitious work ethic. You'll understand what the vibe is all about when you see corporate executives changing into their wetsuits for a lunchtime surf, or professional surfers out for a round of golf. This same "it's all good" attitude translates into the variety of dining and shopping options available in the area. You'll find everything from take-out Mexican food and pizza joints to health food stores and elegant seafood restaurants. Similarly, you'll find underground music stores and hardcore surf shops, in harmony with mainstream clothing outlets and antique stores.
You'll find the best swimming beaches just south of Carlsbad Village and up around the pier in Oceanside. Surfers will enjoy the renowned reef-breaks at Swami's and Cardiff in Encinitas, and the jetties around Oceanside Harbor. If you're into roughing it, there's an excellent campground at South Carlsbad State Beach, but you'll want to make reservations in advance.
Legoland is a fantastic place for young kids and kids-at-heart, but don't expect your teenagers to like it. Older children will enjoy the scene at the beach or one of the local skateboard parks.
Carlsbad is only about 40 minutes north of downtown by car, but at peak weekday traffic hours—southbound in the morning and northbound in the evening—expect the trip to take twice as long. The Amtrak Coaster still plies the old railroad line between downtown San Diego and Los Angeles, with convenient stops in Solana Beach, Carlsbad and Oceanside.
From the South: Exit at La Costa Avenue. Drive north along the coast highway to Carlsbad Village.
To visit the outlets or the Carlsbad Flower Fields, take Palomar Airport Road east and turn left on Paseo Del Norte. For Legoland, use the Cannon Road East exit and follow signs.
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